Cut

The only one of the 4Cs that is within our control is a diamond's cut. Cut is the result of a craftsman’s skill in transforming a rough diamond into a breathtaking gem. A diamond has facets that allow light to enter it, become refracted, and exit in a rainbow of colors. So it follows that a better cut diamond does a better job of dazzling us with its beauty. Here’s the ‘secret’ to how a diamond sparkles:  

These measurements and percentages are different for each diamond, and are all taken into account in the evaluation of a diamond’s cut. In fact, each diamond shape (heart, round, oval, emerald, etc.) has its own set of guidelines for what makes a Premium or Good cut.

Another factor you’ll need to consider when choosing a diamond is its shape. Although ‘shape’ and ‘cut’ are sometimes used interchangeably, they are not the same. For more on this topic, please visit our Diamond Shapes section.




Color:

The most important thing to know about color when it comes to diamonds is, in general, the less color a diamond has, the more valuable it is, all other factors being equal. Diamonds are found in nature in a wide range of colors, from completely colorless (the most desirable trait) to slightly yellow, to brown. So-called ‘fancy color diamonds’ come in more intense colors, like yellow and blue, but these are not graded on the same scale.

The color grading system for diamonds uses the letters of the alphabet from D through Z, with ‘D’ being the most colorless and therefore the rarest and most valuable, and ‘Z’ having the least color within the normal range, and being the least valuable, all other factors being equal. A diamond’s color is determined by looking at it under controlled lighting and comparing them to the Gemological Institute of America’s color scale, which is based on a set of diamonds of known color. Here is a diagram showing how a diamond’s color is graded:

Note: The correct way to grade a diamond is by placing it face-down on a white surface.

Diamond color scale:

Clarity:

Another vital grading characteristic in diamonds is their clarity. This refers to the number, position and size of the inclusions that occur naturally inside diamonds. The fewer and less obvious the inclusions, the more valuable the diamond. Here is an illustration that shows the clarity grading scale that has been established by the world’s foremost authority on diamonds, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). Note: Diamonds are shown under 10X magnification):

It is these inclusions or blemishes that give each diamond its own unique fingerprint, making your particular diamond truly yours. In fact, the independent grading report that comes with every diamond we sell will show a diagram indicting any characteristic your diamond, indicating any blemishes your diamond may have, as well as their location. The most important thing to remember when it comes to clarity is that a diamond’s inclusions should not be noticeable to the naked eye, nor should they be so excessive that they affect the diamond’s durability.

Clarity Grading Scale:



F-IF- Flawless or Internally Flawless, This diamond has no internal inclusions, Very rare.

VVS1-VVS2 - Very Slightly included, Minute inclusions very difficult to detect under 10x magnification.

VS1-VS2- Very Slightly included (two grades), Minute inclusions invisible to the naked eye and seen only with difficulty under 10x magnification.

SI1-SI2- Slightly Included (two grades), Minute inclusions very difficult to detect under 10x magnification.

I1-I2-I3- Included (three grades), Inclusions visible under 10x magnification as well as to the human eye.




Carat

A diamond’s weight is measured in what is known as a ‘carat’, which is a small unit of measurement equal to 200 milligrams. Carat is not a measure of a diamond’s size, since cutting a diamond to different proportions can affect its weight. (The word ‘Karat’ is used to express the purity of gold, and is not used in relation to diamonds.) Here is a diagram that shows the relative size of various carat weights in a diamond that is cut to the same proportions:

Note: the diamonds illustrated are not shown actual size.

The most important thing to remember when it comes to a diamond’s carat weight is that it is not the only factor that determines a diamond’s value. In other words, bigger does not necessarily mean better. All four Cs—Cut, Color, Clarity and Carat Weight must be balanced in order to arrive at a diamond that fits your budget. None of the 4Cs is mutually exclusive, nor is any one more important than the others.




Diamond Shapes

 

The round brilliant cut diamond is by far the most popular and most researched diamond shape available today. For almost 100 years, diamond cutters have been using advanced theories of light behavior and precise mathematical calculations to optimize the fire and brilliance in a round diamond. In addition to being the most popular and researched shape, a round diamond will typically give you more flexibility in terms of balancing cut, color, and clarity grades while still getting the fire and brilliance you want.

 

What makes this shape different is its pavilion, which is cut with rectangular facets to create a unique optical appearance. Due to its larger, open table, this shape highlights the clarity of a diamond. If you choose an emerald-cut with a lower clarity grade, such as SI, be sure to review the clarity plot on the diamond certificate. Also, emerald-cut diamonds can vary greatly in how rectangular they are. If you'd prefer an emerald cut with a squared outline, look for an Asscher-cut diamond.

 

	An oval diamond has beautiful brilliance that's similar to a round diamond. Oval diamonds are also very popular as their length can accentuate long, slender fingers. To find the dimension of oval you want, look for the length-to-width ratio. The length-to-width ratio will determine the diamond's outline, or what it will look like when viewed from the top.

 

	This brilliant-cut diamond is also called a teardrop for its single point and rounded end. The unique look of the pear shape helps make it a popular choice for a variety of diamond jewelry. If you choose an elongated pear shape, the length of the diamond creates a subtle slimming effect on the fingers.

 

The shape of a marquise diamond can maximize carat weight, giving you a much larger-looking diamond. This brilliant-cut diamond looks beautiful set with round or pear-shaped side stones, and the length of the marquise makes fingers appear long and slender. To find the dimension of marquise you want, look for the length-to-width ratio. The length-to-width ratio will determine the diamond's outline, or what it will look like when viewed from the top.

 

	Trimmed corners are the signature of this diamond, and they help make the radiant-cut a popular and versatile choice for jewelry. A radiant-cut looks equally beautiful set with either baguette or round side-diamonds. Radiant-cut diamonds can vary in their degree of rectangularity.

 

	The heart is the ultimate symbol of love. The unique look of the heart-shaped diamond helps make it a distinctive choice for a variety of diamond jewelry. When choosing a color grade, consider that while the price of a J-color heart shaped diamond is exceptional, color may be slightly visible in its corners.

 

This is our most popular non-round diamond. Its beautiful brilliance and unique cut makes it a favorite for engagement rings. The princess has pointed corners and is traditionally square in shape. When choosing a color grade, consider that while the price of a J-color non-round diamond is exceptional, color may be slightly visible in its corners. Also, princess-cut diamonds can vary greatly in how square or rectangular they are.

 

This beautifully unique shape is nearly identical to the emerald-cut, except that it is square. Also, this shape has a pavilion that is cut with rectangular facets in the same style as the emerald-cut. If you choose SI-clarity be sure to view the clarity plot on the diamond certificate, because this shape highlights the clarity of the diamond. When choosing a color grade, consider that while the price of a J-color non-round diamond is exceptional, color may be slightly visible in its corners.

 

This unique shape has been popular for more than a century. Cushion-cut diamonds (also known as "pillow-cut" diamonds) have rounded corners and larger facets to increase their brilliance. These larger facets highlight the diamond's clarity, so if you choose an SI clarity grade, be sure to review the clarity plot on the diamond certificate. Cushion-cut diamonds are available in shapes ranging from square to rectangular.